Levittowners.COM

New Homeowners Guide



ACCESSORIES . . . . .	7		LANDSCAPING . . . .	9
ALTERATIONS . . . . .	18		LOCKS . . . . . . . .	4
CAULKING . . . . . .	8		OIL BURNER . . . . . .	4
CONDENSATION . . . .	3		PAINTING . . . . . .	8
DOORS . . . . . . . .	4		PLUMBING . . . . . .	5
DRIVEWAYS . . . . .	9		RANGE . . . . . . . .	1
ELECTRICAL INFORMATION	2		REFRIGERATION . . . .	1
EMERGENCY SERVICE . .	1		RESTRICTIONS . . . .	18
FENCES . . . . . . .	19		SERVICE CALLS . . . .	1
FIREPLACE . . . . . .	3		SETTLEMENT & SHRINKAGE	3
FLOORS . . . . . . .	8		TILE . . . . . . . . .	7
HEATING SYSTEM . . .	6		WASHING MACHINE . .	1
KITCHEN EQUIPMENT . .	7		WATER VALVES . . . .	5
WINDOWS . . . . . 8

You have just purchased what we believe to be the finest house of its size in America. We wish you health and happiness in Levittown for many years to come.

In order that you may enjoy your house, we have undertaken to prepare this handbook so that you may better understand our position, your responsibilities, and derive the utmost pleasure from it.

On the day that you made settlement, the house was checked by a Service Department inspector. Any damage to appliances, cabinets, siding, glass and driveway was recorded. Approximately thirty days after title date, a Service Department inspector will recheck your house and any items that warrant his attention will be corrected at that time. Since this is regular routine carried on in numerical order, please do not write or telephone.

If an emergency should occur, phone Bristol **98. Your refrigerator, range, clothes washer and heating unit are all guaranteed by their manufacturers for one year. For service on these items, use the following telephone numbers:

Range and Refrigerator . . . Bristol **98
Clothes Washer . .. .. Bristol **41
Heating Unit ...... Bristol **81

Please do not call Levitt and Sons for any of these items and please do not telephone emergency service unless a real emergency exists.

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A charge will be made on all calls that are not emergencies. We feel that our service policy is the most liberal offered by any builder in the country. But in order that we may give the utmost in service, we cannot accept telephone calls or answer letters regarding routine service.

Now let us start at the front door and walk through your new home.

The electric switches on your left control the ceiling light in the dining area and the light over the front door. Behind the right corner of your refrigerator you will find two switches. The red plate is the oil burner emergency switch and the other switch controls your two ceiling fixtures.Your main fuse box is located either in the storage room or the#1 bedroom closet. It is equipped with 15 to 20 ampere screw-type fuses and 25 to 50 ampere cartridge-type fuses. The fuse most apt to fail is the screw fuse. You should have at least four screw-type fuses and two cartridge-type fuses on hand at all times. Upon any lighting failure, check your fuses first. Repeated blowing of fuses would indicate a short circuit, possibly caused by a defective lamp or household appliance. The cartridge-type fuses fit into the holders on the back of the rectangular plugs with the handles attached.These plugs must fit flush with the panel to make proper contact. If a plug does not fit flush, reverse it so that the ridges on the ends fit into the corresponding slits in the panels.
The switch on the hall wall controls the hall ceiling fixture.
The switch on your right in the bathroom controls the fluorescent fixture and the convenience outlet next to it.
The switch on your right in #2 Bedroom controls the outlet on the right wall.

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The switch on the right wall as you enter the convertible room controls the outlet on the right wall.
In your ceiling fixtures, do not use any greater than 60 watt bulbs or 75 watt spotlight type bulbs. In the bathroom fixture, you must supply a 40 watt 48" rapid starting fluorescent bulb.

The wrought iron handle on the brick wall in the dining area is the control for your fireplace damper. It has two positions—open
and shut. Move it clockwise to close and counter-clockwise to open. Before starting a fire we suggest the following procedure:

1. Check that damper is open.

2. Light a piece of paper and hold up near the top of the fireplace; this preheats your chimney.

3. After lighting your kindling, make sure the screen is tightly closed.

SETTLEMENT & SHRINKAGE

Settlement and shrinkage are common to every house. They will cause small cracks to appear—usually at corners. Your house has been designed to show as little damage as possible. Keeping an even temperature—70° to 72°, for the first year, will help minimize the shrinkage of the lumber.

CONDENSATION

Condensation is the formation of water, usually on a very smooth surface. It takes place when warm moist air comes in contact with a cold surface. This is best stopped by adequate ventilation. After the house is 2 or 3 years old condensation will be negligible.

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DOORS & LOCKS

All doors have a tendency to bind a little, due primarily to settlement, shrinkage and dampness. Exterior doors, particularly, will warp because of weather—hot inside, cold outside. Don't be hasty in planing or cutting your door; it will tend to correct itself. Storm doors will help keep the others straight.
All exterior door saddles have four "weep holes"—two on top and two on bottom facing out. These should be cleaned out about once a month, otherwise water will back up and work its way indoors.
All your doors are equipped with Sargent locks. The exterior locks have their locking buttons in the knobs. To lock, turn the button clockwise and push in. To unlock, turn the button counter-clockwise and it will snap out. The interior locks have a small button next to the knob. To lock, you just push in, and it unlocks by turning the knob on the same side as the button. Both the interior and exterior locks lock on one side only the side opposite the locking buttons. In a separate envelope you will find two small metal tools. One is a "spanner" wrench and one is an emergency key. You use the spanner wrench on the brass ring on exterior locks. The emergency keys are for interior locks. They fit in the hole next to the knob on the opposite side of the locking button. This key is needed only if someone locks himself in a room and cannot turn the knob.
On the ceiling of this closet, you will find a 20" x 20" inspection hatch to your attic. If at any time you have to go up in your attic, be careful not to step off boards or beams.

Your oil burner should give you a minimum of trouble. If you do

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have an oil burner failure, check the following before calling for a serviceman:

1. Be certain you have oil.

2. Is main switch "on"?

3. Thermostat must be set higher than room temperature, otherwise burner will run for domestic hot water only.

4. Press "reset" button (only once) on front of boiler and release.

5. Check fuse.

Do not attempt any adjustments; you may cause serious damage.
You should oil your circulator and oil burner motor about twice a year. The red circulator has three oil cups and burner motor has two oil cups.

Every faucet has a washer. Washers should be changed about every six months. Faucets should never be forced. Turn just hard enough to stop water.
Your main water supply valve is in the cabinet under your kitchen sink. When you replace faucet washers anywhere in the house, you must close this valve.
Exterior hose connections have "non-freeze" valves. They do not have to be shut off inside during the winter. Hoses, however, should be removed during the winter. Ice forming in the hose will break either the hose or the hose faucet.
Never use an abrasive cleaner on any of your plumbing fixtures.
Do not throw undisposable articles in the toilet — they will
cause a stoppage. A service charge will be made on all "stopped-up-toilet" calls, caused by non-disposable articles.

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The main water shut-off for your house is under the sink, near the wall. This shuts off both cold and hot water in the house.
The garden hose faucet which is on the outside wall in back of the sink, is self-draining, so that it will not freeze in cold weather.
The bath tub filler is equipped with a "Diverter" type spout so that the mixed water can be diverted to shower or tub by lifting or lowering the plunger on the spout.
Your shower operates by pulling up the knob on the tub spigot while the water is running.

HEATING SYSTEM

Your heating system consists of an oil-fired boiler supplying heating coils imbedded in the concrete floor beneath the asphalt tile. As heated water is pumped through these heating coils, the coils warm the concrete in which they are imbedded and the entire floor becomes warm. Since the entire floor is used to supply heat to the rooms, it is not necessary that the surface of the floor get very hot.
This system, called a radiant or panel heating system, offers a comfortably warmed floor which results in even heating throughout the rooms. There are five separate heating coils serving different areas and these have their own flow regulating valves. The temperature in the house is controlled from the thermostat which should be set at a point to yield you the greatest comfort. This is usually about 70°, but can be set higher or lower as suits the individual homeowner. Once set properly, it should not be changed often. Especially do not attempt to lower temperatures at night and raise them in the morning, since this type of system is designed to hold a steady heat, and does not lend itself to large temperature changes in a short period of time.
The heating boiler also heats your domestic hot water by keeping hot an instantaneous type of copper water coil. This type of

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water heating, which requires no storage tank, allows you to draw 15 to 18 gallons of hot water over a five- to six-minute period. This supply will replenish itself in about a ten-minute period if exhausted.
The heating and hot water are automatically controlled and it is not necessary to do anything to switch from summer to winter
operation.
Do not drain the heating system except if necessary for repairs,
as the water in the system is essentially free from air and is non-
corrosive.
In the closet in the hall are the supply and return manifolds for
your heating system.

The wall tile is porcelain fused on steel. It may be treated in the same manner as porcelain. The color is not acid proof. Cracking of cement around tile or between tile and tub is due to ordinary settlement and can be repaired with cement or grout procured locally.

KITCHEN EQUIPMENT

All your appliances and your cabinets have instruction booklets with them. Take a few minutes and read them carefully. They contain important information and if followed, will give long years of satisfaction and pleasure.
Your base units have small separators between them. This is to facilitate cleaning and to prevent moisture from accumulating between them, causing rust.

ACCESSORIES

After using the exhaust fan, be sure that the blades stop and there is no hum, otherwise the motor will burn out. The fan and housing should be cleaned at least twice a year and motor lubri-

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cated, in tubes provided, at least 4 times a year. The tracks on which your fan door slides should be checked for lubrication monthly. Any light grease or even Vaseline will be sufficient.
Your chrome bathroom accessories may loosen occasionally. This can be rectified by tightening the small set screw underneath the brackets.

PAINTING AND CAULKING

Your exterior wood trim should be painted after the first year and about every three years thereafter. The asbestos siding does not require painting at any time.
Caulking around windows and doors should be checked every six months.

ALUMINUM WINDOWS

Your sliding sash may be removed for cleaning. This can be done by moving the sash to the opposite side of its track and gently lifting up and pulling towards the inside of the room—never force! The top and bottom of the sash should be lubricated occasionally. Tallow or any soap type lubricant is recommended. This type lubricant is also recommended for all sliding panels and doors.
Every aluminum frame is equipped with two little flaps on the outside of the lower track. These let the water out from the inside track and should be checked for ease of operation at least every two months.

You will receive a separate folder on the care of your floor tile. We strongly recommend the manufacturer's suggestions on furniture accessories. Never leave grease or oil on your tile. They tend to dissolve asphalt tile.

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DRIVEWAYS

Your asphalt drive and walk have been checked by the Service Department and any serious condition noted. Your driveway may have small indentations or unevenness in it. This is characteristic of the material and with traffic on it, it will even out. Do not let heavy trucks on your driveway. It was not designed for such traffic and we cannot be responsible for damage caused by heavy vehicles. Do not let grease, oil or gasoline spill on your driveway. They will dissolve the asphalt.

LANDSCAPING

Your grounds undoubtedly will have depressions from settlement. This occurs whenever ground is disturbed and can be rectified when you top-dress your lawn. The care of your lawn and landscaping are covered very thoroughly in the following pages and we urge that you read them carefully.

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THE LAWN AND ITS UPKEEP

No single feature of a suburban residential community contributes as much to the charm and beauty of the individual home and locality as well-kept lawns. Stabilization of values, yes, increase in values, will most often be found in those neighborhoods where lawns show as green carpets, and trees and shrubbery join to impart the sense of residential elegance. Where lawns and landscape material are neglected the neighborhood soon assumes a sub-standard or blighted appearance and is naturally shunned by the public.Your investment in your garden is large at the beginning, but will grow larger and larger as the years go by. For while furniture, houses and most material things tend to depreciate with the years, your lawn, trees and shrubs become more valuable both esthetically and monetarily. We grade your premises, fertilize the soil, then seed and roll the lawn. After that we turn the newly-made lawn over to you for your care. The first thing to do is to water for many hours each day. The grass seed will not germinate otherwise; most of the seed will dry up. There is but one way -and only one way-to water a lawn.

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Use an overhead sprinkler on one spot for a short time then shift the sprinkler to another spot. If you use it too long on any one place on a new lawn, it will create puddles and wash out the soil and seed. Don't use the hose with nozzle attached; you will wash away the seed. Don't step on a soft lawn, especially with high heeled shoes: use a board or several of them. Try to keep children from running over the new soil, though we admit that is no easy task.
You may have wash-outs or erosion of the soil in certain places before the grass comes up. That cannot be helped. The only cure is to refill the eroded channels with top soil and fertilizer, reseed and reroll. In the absence of a roller a flat board will do.
Weeds spring up in the newly made lawn, especially those lawns laid down inspring; in the fall few weeds appear. Cut them as soon as they rise to 3 inches and keep on cutting them until they disappear. Ambitious people stoop to the back-breaking exercise of pulling out each weed separately; we consider that unnecessary.
Cut the grass as soon as it reaches a height of 3 inches and continue cutting at least once a week—twice a week is better. If you neglect to cut the grass when short, your work will be twice as hard. We have seen people attempting to cut grass 5 or 6 inches high. They usually give up the attempt after a few minutes. But had they cut the grass at 3 inches, the lawn mower would have gone through it without effort.
The more often you cut your lawn the more grass you will have.Grass naturally tends to grow upright but cutting the tops makes it spread horizontally. That is your aim, to build up a compact and closely cropped lawn, not a few high stalks.
Don't attempt to sweep a lawn of gravel or other things before a good growth of grass has occurred. There are grass seeds in the mixture we use that take a long time to germinate and when you

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rake or sweep you are sweeping out the best grass seed.
Watering a new lawn, and one where the grass has grown sufficiently to be cut are two different things. To get the seed to germinate you must sprinkle with an overhead sprinkler for a few minutes in one place, then shift the sprinkler to another place, otherwise you will wash out the soil. And you must do such sprinkling daily for a good many hours at a time. Not so with an established lawn. There you must soak the ground, not merely sprinkle for a few minutes, but you should not do this more than twice or perhaps three times a week. You must develop long roots in the grass an if you sprinkle gently each day the water stays on top and so do the roots. Sending the water down in the earth by soaking infrequently makes the roots seek the water.
It takes time to make a good lawn. If your new lawn is 50 percent perfect and the balance bare spots, that is the most you can expect. Next year with proper care it should be better and the third year should show a green carpet—provided—always provided—you have given it the care, and replenished and renovated it, in the manner hereinafter described.
Even the best lawn must be rebuilt in part at least twice a year. The ravages of winter and the devastating burning summer work havoc with a lawn. Early in spring (April is the best month) the lawn should receive a top dressing of about a quarter of an inch of good, fine, top soil. Better still, the top dressing ought to consist of 1/3 top soil, 1/3 sand and 1/3 peat moss, all mixed up and spread over the lawn. If you haven't the sand use the other ingredients or use any one of them as a last alternative. In place of the peat moss, an excellent material to be used is cultivated humus. After the top dressing, apply a complete fertilizer (one advertised for use on lawns) at the rate of 25 lbs. to the thousand square feet. Apply the fertilizer only when the grass is dry lest it stick to the grass and

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burn it. Then rake the fertilizer gently into the top dressing. After that you seed, again gently raking in the seed to cover it a bit. Uncovered seed too often dries up. Roll the lawn, but in the absence of a roller a board pressed down will do partly.
In the fall—the month of September is best—exactly the same procedure must be followed.
In addition to the foregoing—if you are ambitious or aspiring enough, we suggest that after the first fertilization in April, a second and lighter one about May 10th and a third about June 10th. Also in the fall, a second application of fertilizer about October 10th or 15th. But be sure the grass is dry, then sweep the leaves clean, after which, water.
There are a variety of fertilizers on the market mostly under brand names. Fertilizers are divided into organic and inorganic.We recommend that the first application of fertilizer in springup to May 1st—be a commercial inorganic material with an analysis of 10-6-4. Subsequent applications — especially in warmer weather—should be organic. The foregoing applies equally to fall applications. For the month of September, the inorganic; there after the organic.
The height of grass should be kept to about 11/2 inches during all months except from June 15th to August 15th when the lawnmower should cut no lower than 2 1/2 inches.

THE CARE OF TREES, SHRUBS AND EVERGREENS

Remember the distinction between newly transplanted landscape material and those well established in a particular place. A newly transplanted tree, shrub or evergreen, has been up-rooted from its customary habitat and has undergone what might be termed a surgical operation in being transplanted. It must be nursed back

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to health or it might die. Quite some of the material we plant dies. This is due principally to insufficient care by the owner of the premises. We plant, but we do not maintain—that's your job.
Now the first thing to do to newly transplanted material is to water it. We have given this advice again and again and to see the neglect of many owners in this respect is extremely disheartening. Many who attempt to water do much more harm than good. There is but one way to water a newly transplanted tree, shrub or evergreen. Place the hose (without nozzle!) at the root of the plant and give it a good soaking. For a large tree proceed from several positions. The hole or holes made by the rushing water should be plugged up when through watering.
There is a gadget or instrument on the market which screws onto the hose and acts as a plunger enabling you to penetrate the earth for several feet where the water is discharged. We highly recommend this instrument.
On roads where lawns have not been made, dust accumulates to a measurable degree. This dust is thrown in the air by passing cars blanketing the evergreens with thick layers. The plants are prevented from breathing. Play the hose on the entire tops and sides of the evergreen after sun down.
Deciduous material (those that drop their leaves in late fall) should be watered until late fall; but evergreens must be watered until the ground freezes, say until Christmas day.
Next to watering, comes cultivation. Every farmer who raises potatoes or corn or strawberries or cabbage cultivates appropriately, otherwise his crop would be unwholesome and unmarketable. Cultivation as applied to your premises, means keeping a bed of loose and friable earth around your plants free of weeds and always in a condition where air and water will penetrate to the roots. The sun turns the earth around trees and plants into a hardened crust through which neither water nor air can reach the roots.

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This earth must at all times be broken up to a depth where the fingers of your hand can go through it like granulated sugar. To prevent excessive baking of the ground cover the cultivated ground with a layer of peat moss an inch to 2 inches thick. In the growing season only, give each plant, shrub and tree a little fertilizer of the same character as you use for the lawn. What is a little? A small shrub might take a pound, a large tree 25 Ibs. Don't place the fertilizer around the trunk but at some distance. Then dig in the fertilizer and water. Light applications of fertilizer (during the growing season but not after July 15th) at frequent intervals of two weeks apart will work wonders.
In cultivating, do it with a spading fork, not just after a rain when the earth will not break up but when the earth is moderately dry.

SHEARING OF EVERGREENS

All evergreens should be sheared once a year. Use hedge shears. Conform the plant to its shape when first received on your premises. The best time for shearing is about June 15th; fall shearing
is dangerous. Plants not sheared for several years will become loose, wild and scraggly, not to be tolerated in any decent landscape setting.

PRUNING OF DECIDUOUS SHRUBS

These shrubs need little pruning, the less the better. However, dead wood should be cut. To recognize the dead from live limbs, scratch them deeply with your finger nail; if green, they are alive; if plain wood, they are dead. Again, you may occasionally find a shrub too high or too broad; prune the tops of the higher one and the sides of the other. Use common sense; if a tree or shrub would look better if pruned, do so.

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WINTER PROTECTION

Most plants need some protection through the winter. Especially is this true of recently transplanted material. It is not so much from the cold that the plants suffer but from the devastating winds that dry and shrivel them. Then, again, alternate times of heat and cold work havoc. Therefore, good practice demands that you cover the roots with a sufficient layer of dirt or peat moss. We prefer the last as the simplest and best. It may be purchased at any good seed store.
All newly transplanted material ought to have a mulch or covering around the roots of about 2 inches of peat moss. As you cultivate and dig up the soil some of the peat moss will disappear into the topsoil. Keep replenishing the peat moss so that you have a layer of about 2 inches always on top.
With the approach of colder weather this layer of peat moss should be gradually increased. When the ground has frozen solid a final layer of peat moss around the roots to a depth of 10 to 12 inches should be provided. In spring this covering should be gradually removed, leaving a layer of about 2 inches.
But plants exposed to fierce northerly gales need in addition to these coverings, protection in the form of a windbreak. This latter is best accomplished by driving stakes into the ground to which burlap is nailed. The burlap should not touch the plants, an inch or two away is the correct position.
Some plants require an acid soil; others respond best to an alkaline soil. If you have rhododendruns, mountain laurel, myrtle, azalias, etc. on your premises, they must be kept in an acid soil. We use oak leaf mold which is strongly on the acid side and which is an excellent organic fertilizer. We recommend it together with peat moss for all acid loving plants. Other flowering shrubs, shade

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and fruit trees, should not be fertilized with oak leaf mold but should receive applications of lawn fertilizer.
Never apply any lime to rhododendruns, laurel or azalias; lime sweetens the soil.
Rhododendruns, azalias, laurel and the like should be sprayed at least once a year. The exact spray is composed of nicotine sulphate with a suitable sticker. Manufacturers put it out under various trade names.
Fruit trees must be sprayed at least five times a year. But this applies only after they become of bearing age. The exact formula is now on the market under brand names.
Flowering shrubs, shade trees and evergreens hardly need any spraying unless the Japanese beetle is present. That pest emerges from the ground about June 30th. The practice is to spray a few days before June 30 and then at intervals of about 10 days. The formula is D.D.T. 50% wetable powder mixed with calcium caseinate, the latter acting as sticker. Various manufacturers put out this material, already mixed.
A final word: landscaping cannot be compared with the building of a concrete wall. The latter is constructed and is finished. But plants are living and breathing creatures which grow and thrive under favorable conditions. A garden lover must be patient. A few sticks in the ground turn into massive shrubs in a few years. If you find that we have spaced certain shrubs, say 6 feet apart don't attempt to plant additional shrubs between. For the vacant space left by us will, in a reasonably short time, be filled by the natural growth and spread of the plants.

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Every good community has restrictions that will insure its continued maintenance. As a result property values increase and greater enjoyment results to all homeowners. Here is a summary of those at Levittown. If you read them carefully you will see that they have but one purpose in mind: that you and your neighbors benefit from them.

1. You can add another carport or garage or room—IF it is similar in architecture, color and material to the dwelling—IF it doesn't project in front of the original house at all, or more than 15 feet in back of it—-and IF at all times there still remain at least 20 feet of open yard in the rear and 7 feet on each side. (On comer lots, each side of the house facing a street is considered a front. If your house fronts on 2 streets you must leave at least 6 feet of open yard at one interior side and 15 feet at the other; if you bought one of the rare corners fronting on 3 streets, you must leave at least 6 feet of open yard at the remaining interior side).

2. You may display a residence sign but don't make it more than one square foot in size.

3. You may keep a couple of household pets (dogs or cats, etc.) but no commercial breeding or maintaining is allowed.

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4. If you are a physician or a dentist or other similar professional person, you may have your office in your home BUT no business of any kind is permitted — the residential sections of Levittown must remain residential.

5. When you put your garbage out for collection make sure it is in a tightly closed metal container. Don't strew rubbish or garbage around your property.

6. You may plant a shrub or other growing fence BUT keep it no higher than 3 feet. If you have a young child or a pet and want to pen them in, try a good thorny barberry or similar hedge fence of that height—it should do the job perfectly. NO FABRICATED FENCES (wood, metal, etc.) WILL BE PERMITTED. In laying out the plots at Levittown we have achieved a maximum of openness and park-line appearance. Fences will cut this up into small parcels and spoil the whole effect no matter how good looking the fence material itself might be—and some of it is pretty terrible! This item is of prime importance.

7. Laundry can be hung in the rear but please use one of the revolving portable dryers. Old-fashioned clotheslines strung across a lawn look messy. And please don't leave laundry hanging out on Sundays or holidays when you and your neighbors are most likely to be relaxing on your rear lawn.

8. If your property backs on a road, the lot has been made 20 feet deeper than usual. This is so the rear 20 feet can be landscaped and screened, thereby protecting your privacy from passing automobiles and pedestrians. You must—and we're sure you'll want to take care of this landscaping. With reasonable attention it will soon grow thick and high enough to give you complete privacy. This is the one and only place where shrub fencing is permitted to grow higher than 3 feet (see item 6 above). If yon live

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on a comer plot, the same is true as regards the diagonal cornerline connecting the sidewalks.

9. Mow your lawn and remove weeds at least once a week between April 15th and November 15th. Nothing makes a lawn—and a neighborhood — and a community — look shabbier than uncut grass and unsightly weeds. A lot of thought, work and money has gone into the preparation of your lawn. It will flourish if you take care of it—but it will quickly grow wild and unkempt if you don't.

10. If you live on a comer you cannot remove or add anything to the planting at the comer. If anything dies you may re-plant the same items if we don't. We go to special pains on comers and that's why we don't want them changed.
If you are interested in the full text of the Restrictions, they have been filed as an official public record in the Bucks County Recorder's office at Doylestown.

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